Yellowstone or Bust: From Presidents to Park Gates

The Adventure Continues

After four days on the road, the truck had settled into its rhythm, snacks in every cup holder, playlists created by yours truly looping just right, and a fine layer of road dust coating everything we owned. The cornfields were behind us; ahead lay mountains, monuments, and the wide-open West. As we exited the Midwestern plains, moving into the rolling hills of western South Dakota, my wife and I got a good laugh as the kids kept asking “Are these the Rocky Mountains?” No, dear children, these aren’t even mountains.

From Keystone, South Dakota, we wound our way through Spearfish Canyon, marveled at the Old West charm that is Deadwood, then crossed into Wyoming. The landscapes grew grander with every mile, and by week’s end, we’d finally reach the gates of Yellowstone National Park.


Day 5: Keystone to Deadwood, South Dakota

The day began hot, under bright blue skies as we made the short drive to one of America’s most iconic landmarks.

Mount Rushmore National Memorial

Mount Rushmore might be a familiar image, but seeing it in person still stops you in your tracks. Who thought that, one day, I would be in a position to view right up the left nostril of our first president? The size, the detail, and the setting among the pines make it worth every minute. We walked the Presidential Trail, browsed the exhibits, and took plenty of photos before continuing west. It was crowded but parking was plentiful (they had installed a huge parking ramp since my last visit) and being earlier in the morning, there wasn’t yet an overwhelming sea of people…maybe just a lake of them.

Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway

As we continued west toward our next destination, the legendary Wild West town of Deadwood, South Dakota, we detoured through Spearfish Canyon, one of the state’s most breathtaking drives. Towering limestone cliffs rose on either side of the road, their slopes blanketed in pine, and waterfalls appeared around nearly every bend. This was a relaxing drive along winding forest roads with interesting views around every turn.

  • Bridal Veil Falls and Roughlock Falls both made for quick, refreshing stops, perfect photo ops and a welcome cool-down from the July sun with plenty of woodsy shade.

Adams Museum & Broken Boot Gold Mine – Deadwood

By afternoon, we rolled into Deadwood, where history and kitsch collide in the best possible way. The Adams Museum offered a fascinating look at the area’s gold rush boom, while the Broken Boot Gold Mine tour let us don hard hats and squeeze through narrow tunnels for a taste of the miner’s life. We all had the opportunity to take a stab at striking it rich panning for gold after the tour. As if that weren’t enough, we even stumbled into a gunfight right in the middle of town. Sure, it was staged for the tourists, but the “law” caught the bandits and delivered justice fitting for their crimes, Deadwood style. If you’re so inclined, there’s plenty of casinos where you can try your luck with the infamous “one-armed bandits.”

We checked into the Super 8 by Wyndham Deadwood, ready to trade the day’s dust for a good night’s sleep.

Day 5 Summary
Miles driven: ~55 miles
Overnight: Super 8 by Wyndham Deadwood
Hotel rating: 7/10 – Convenient, clean, and friendly, though a little dated which somehow fit the Deadwood aesthetic. The kids enjoyed the pool and we enjoyed that it had two rooms so we weren’t all on top of each other.


Day 6: Deadwood, SD to Cody, WY

In the morning, we had a tasty breakfast on a deck with a beatutiful view of a local creek, included with our hotel stay, and hit the road early for one of the trip’s longest driving days, crossing from the Black Hills into the sweeping plains of Wyoming.

The Drive West

The farther west we went, the more the landscape opened up, rolling grasslands giving way to distant ridge lines and, finally, the rugged foothills of the Rockies. It was the kind of drive that makes you appreciate just how big the West really is.

By my estimation, Cody is the perfect gateway to Yellowstone, close enough to feel the park’s wild spirit, yet full of its own western charm. The drive to the East Entrance takes about an hour, and if you leave early, you’ll not only beat the crowds but also catch the morning sun lighting up the colorful cliffs and canyons in front of you. It’s a beautiful, peaceful start to the day.

Cody also has the advantage of being a real town, with big-city conveniences that make it an ideal spot to restock supplies midway through a long road trip. And for those who prefer to skip the cross-country drive, it even has a surprisingly well-equipped regional airport, making it easy to fly in and start your Yellowstone adventure right from here.

Buffalo Bill Center of the West – Cody, WY

We arrived in Cody mid-afternoon and spent the rest of the day at the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, a complex of five museums under one roof. There’s Buffalo Bill Museum, Plains Indian Museum, Cody Firearms Museum, Whitney Western Art Museum, and Draper Natural History Museum, everyone found something that grabbed their interest. This stop could have been an entire day, it’s that huge and interesting. For me, this museum is a must see, it’s so good.

Dinner that evening was at 8th Street at the Ivy, an upscale stop that felt like a well-earned break after several days of quick meals, diners, and pizza. The food was good, though a bit overpriced for what it was. Then again, overpriced seemed to be the theme of this trip, especially when it came to food. I suspect the post-COVID recovery surge had something to do with that, but regardless, my carefully planned meal budget didn’t stand a chance.

After dinner, we made a quick stop at the grocery store to stock up on supplies for the next day, everything we’d need for a picnic lunch inside the park. Our plan was to skip the crowded (and pricey) restaurants and enjoy a quiet meal at one of Yellowstone’s scenic pull-offs instead. With the truck loaded and a fresh pile of clean laundry from the hotel machines, we wrapped up the evening at the Best Western Sunset Inn, ready for an early start in the morning.

Day 6 Summary
Miles driven: ~350 miles
Overnight: Best Western Sunset Inn, Cody
Hotel rating: 8/10 – Clean, small, and perfect for a short stay just to sleep after a full day on the highway. On-site laundry was really helpful too.


Day 7: Cody, WY to Jackson Hole, WY

This was the day every mile so far had been leading toward, the day we finally entered Yellowstone National Park. We left Cody early, following Highway 14/16/20 through the rugged beauty of Shoshone Canyon and across Buffalo Bill Dam. The steep canyon walls and sparkling water made it hard not to stop every few minutes for photos, but Yellowstone was calling. It was a beautiful drive that helped build the anticipation for the amazing sights we would see in the park.


Yellowstone Lake

Our first stop inside the park was a scenic turn-off suggested by our virtual tour guide on our GuideAlong app. The original plan was to drive up to the massive, glassy Yellowstone Lake and stick our toes in the chilly water but instead, we were convinced to take a chance on this detour. The morning air was cool, and mist rose gently off the surface as the sun climbed higher. The view of Yellowstone Lake was breathtaking and we all realized that after nearly a week on the road, we had finally arrived.


Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, Artist Point & Uncle Tom’s Trail

From the lake, we continued north through dense morning fog toward what I consider to be the park’s crown jewel, the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. I could have spent the day here just absorbing the amazing experience. The view from Artist Point is nothing short of breathtaking, maybe even life changing, with pastel-colored canyon walls and the powerful Lower Falls roaring below.

A short hike down Uncle Tom’s Trail offered an even closer view of the falls. The steep stairway tested our legs, but the payoff, standing in the mist with the sound of the water echoing around the canyon, was unforgettable.


Fountain Paint Pots

After lunch, we steered west toward Yellowstone’s geothermal heart. The Fountain Paint Pots offered a fascinating glimpse into the park’s volcanic side. Bubbling mud, steaming vents, and the constant hiss of escaping gases reminded us just how alive the ground beneath us really is. The rotten egg smell from the sulfur gas is really something that can only be experienced first hand 😆.


Picnic Lunch

We stopped at a nearby picnic area for a simple but perfect lunch. Sandwiches, chips, a clear cool stream flowing by, and the sound of the wind in the pines, it doesn’t get much better. It was one of those moments that felt both ordinary and extraordinary at the same time.


Grand Prismatic Spring / Midway Geyser Basin

A few miles up the road, we reached the Grand Prismatic Spring, one of Yellowstone’s most iconic sights. Unfortunately, this was also where the reality of the park’s popularity hit us like a wall of heat and exhaust. We didn’t realize it at the time, but July 2021 turned out to be the busiest month in Yellowstone’s 149-year history, with more than a million visitors pouring through the gates. By mid-day, parking at the major attractions was nearly impossible. We circled lots, hoping to get lucky, but most of the time ended up waving surrender and moving on. It was disappointing to skip a few of the stops we’d been excited about, but even from the road, the views along the Midway Geyser Basin were incredible, a kaleidoscope of steam, color, and motion that reminded us why so many people flock here in the first place.


Old Faithful Geyser

Our next stop was Old Faithful, the most famous geyser in the world, and apparently, everyone else’s destination that day too. By the time we arrived, the crowds were unbelievable. It felt less like a national park and more like Times Square on New Year’s Eve, complete with shoulder-to-shoulder crowds, long lines, and people everywhere trying to stake out a good viewing spot.

We waited nearly thirty minutes just to use the restrooms, picked up a few souvenirs in the gift shop, and decided that was enough adventure for this one stop. None of us had the energy (or patience) to fight for a view of the eruption. Instead, we made a family pact: we’d watch Old Faithful go off later that night on YouTube from the comfort of our hotel room, where the bathrooms had no lines, and the only crowd was us.

I have no pictures of the Old Faithful stop because the whole experience was just too frustrating. Here’s a puppy.

Dinner & Evening Drive

By dinner time we had honestly been beaten by Yellowstone Park and I don’t even recall where we ate. I think it was Grant Village on the way out the South Entrance. Since it was decided that would be our last stop in Yellowstone, there were more souvenirs purchased as well as some ice cream. Our next stop was Jackson, Wyoming via Grand Teton National Park. Fortunately for us it was summer and there was a lot of daylight remaining as we began the scenic drive south toward Park and our home base for the next couple of nights in Jackson.


Snake River Overlook & Schwabacher Landing

The transition from Yellowstone into the Tetons was seamless, and the evening light made it unforgettable. We stopped first at the Snake River Overlook, where the last rays of sunlight washed the mountains in gold and pink, reminding me of photos by Ansel Adams. A few miles farther south, Schwabacher Landing offered a quiet, peaceful stop. The still water mirrored the Tetons beautifully, framed by tall grasses and fading light. It wasn’t dramatic or crowded, just calm and perfectly serene after a long, full day. It was one of those moments that quietly reminds you why you travel.

Of course, getting there took a little patience. Somewhere between the Grand Teton National Park entrance and Jackson, we hit our first true traffic jam of the trip, a herd of bison casually occupying the road. For nearly half an hour, traffic crawled as the massive animals lumbered along the center line, entirely unbothered by the honking and cameras. Honestly, it was hard to complain; it’s not every day you’re stuck behind a thousand pounds of living, breathing Americana.

The rest of the drive into Jackson was mostly downhill, and for the first time all trip, my truck’s display proudly showed 34 miles per gallon. I knew it wouldn’t last long, but it still felt like winning the fuel economy lottery after a week of mountain climbs, full loads, and endless scenic detours.

By the time we reached The Lodge at Jackson Hole, darkness had settled in and the temperature had dropped. The thoughts of cozy, woodsy decor and comfortable beds promising the luxury we’d been looking forward to after a packed week on the road.


Day 7 Summary

Miles driven: ~340 miles
Overnight: The Lodge at Jackson Hole
Hotel rating: 2/10 – The Lodge at Jackson Hole should have been one of our favorite stays. It was spacious, quiet, and beautifully decorated, but that’s where the positives ended. The room’s lack of cleanliness and overall disrepair were disappointing, especially considering the price, nearly $2,000 for three nights. For that cost, you can find far better lodging elsewhere.


Looking Ahead

With the monuments and highways behind us, the next leg promised nature at its wildest, the majesty of the Tetons, and wildlife around every curve.

Next in Yellowstone or Bust, we trade geysers for granite peaks and start the long drive home, complete with detours, discoveries, and a little Lambeau spirit. Watch next week for Part 3 – From the Tetons to Titletown and the Road Home.

👉 What’s the most random place you’ve ever pulled over on a road trip, and was it worth it? Let’s talk about it in the comments.

1 thought on “Yellowstone or Bust: From Presidents to Park Gates”

  1. The Laura Ingalls Plum Creek/Dugout site in Minnesota that wasn’t originally on our radar. But we saw a random sign driving by and I believe I asked you turn around and go back. It was down a family’s long private driveway and they allowed people on their property for a donation to go see the dugout site and also experience Plum Creek. I remember being fascinated that is where she likely stood years ago. I made the boys stand on a large boulder in the creek for a photo. TOTALLY worth it!!

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